This time we went to Bokodaki-Iwa (monk-hugging rock) in Kaburiki-Yama (crown-wearing mountain) as known as Obasute-Yama (old-people-left-abandoned mountain) in Nagano prefecture. It was a little bit far from Tokyo Metropolitan area. Matsu picked us at Takasaki Station and two more climbers joined us at a different station, we took Joshin’etsu Express way to Sakaki IC. Then we drove National Road #18 for a while and into a local road up to the opposite side of the ridge of Kaburiki-yama, and parked the car on the shoulder. One more climber, Shin, joined there. We (6 of us) hiked up for about 15 minutes and arrived at the rock.
I have never been to this area before. The Bokodaki-iwa was made of tuffstone. There were one big rock and several boulders (10~15m high, routes are bolted). We climbed Bolder A.
Quick Jive 5.7 (lead, flash)
Rain Waltz 5.9 (lead, flash)
Ishi-no-hana (Rock Flower) 10c (top rope, I could not top out)
Casa Blanca 10b (top rope, tension)
Slow Dancing 10a (top rope, tension)
Ishi-no-hana was difficult for10c. The wall was very steep or slightly overhung, and hand holds were flat or vertical (at least at the bottom section).
After finishing Bolder A, we moved to the main rock. Shin set the quickdraws on Rising Sun (10a) for us. As the first bolt was high, I pre-clipped the rope to avoid ground fall.
Rising Sun 10a (lead, 1 tension)
Matsu tried Cosmic World 11b ★★★ three times. I belayed Shin for the same route, and it looked almost unclimbable from down below.
We wrapped up around 3 o’clock and went to see Suzumi-Iwa (cool rock) on the way back. Suzumi-iwa was one big crag and almost all the routes were terribly overhung. Not for me!
I would definitely like to go back there to climb Bolder B to E !