Shibasaki Rock 08/27/017 柴崎ロック

This is the “Matterhorn rock,” only 60cm tall.

Shibasaki Rock is a small limestone crag located in Oku-chichibu area in Saitama Prefecture. If you come from Tokyo, take Kan’etsu Expressway and get off at Hanazono off-ramp, and take Minano-Yorii bypass (toll road) and find Prefectural Road #37. Stay on #37 till Man’nen Bashi and turn right. Next landmark is Yoshida Public Hall (community center), unfortunately the signage is written in Japanese, and make a sharp right turn into a narrow road. Drive 15 minutes or so, and you see a rock which looks like a miniature Matterhorn (ha ha ha!) on your right, that is where the access trail starts leading to Shibasaki Rock (5 minute- walk). You can drive down a little further and park your car on the shoulder (parallel parking). On-sight is difficult. Find somebody who has been there. Good Luck!

 

At the end of August, we went to Shibasaki Rock for one day of freeclimbing. It was a group of 10 people (2 climbing instructors and 8 climbers). There are about 20 route, and they are vertical/slightly overhang/overhang.

You can find the topo here. http://cliff.world.coocan.jp/schedule/shibasaki/topo.htm

 

Well, the easiest route in this area is slightly overhang.

Umaizo Ginnan (Gingko Nuts are tasty) 5.8

 

Other routes I climbed (top roping) are:

Entotsu (chimney) 5.9

Superclip 5.10c –many tensions

Warming Hook 5.10a

Urushigi (lacquer tree) 5.11a –pulled on gear at the crux

Mizo 1 (groove) 5.9

Shoshinsha Mark (Beginner Mark) 5.9 –pulled on gear at the start

 

By the way, Urushigi is a three-star route. Please give it a try when you are in this area.

 

 

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