Kasameri 08/30/2017 カサメリ沢

Three days after Shibasaki Rock climbing, I took the climbing class of the same school. This time it was held at Kasameri-Sawa Rock in Mizugaki area. We left Shinjuku Station at 7:00 in the morning, and took Chuo Expressway to Sudama Intersection in Yamanashi Prefecture. From there we drove the surface road to Shokujusai Hiroba (tree planting ceremony site) of Mizugaki Mountain, and arrived at Fudosawa, where we parked our car at 10:30AM. The rock site is on the other side of the river, about 15 minutes’ walk from the parking.

 

Kasameri is granite, and it has many rocks and lots of routes. We climbed at KOSE ROCK. The wall is very steep, and partially overhang. Slab routes (5.9) are low grade, 10a and 10b routes are face routes with crimps, harder routes (11b and 11d) looked vertical with blank sections, and we will have to reach for small features of the rock. I decided to stick to easier grade up to 10b. All top-roping.

 

KOSEROCK

Neko-no-te (Cat’s Paw) 10a   I climbed this route twice.

Total Recall 10b   Gee, I could not top out. Many years ago I had flashed this route!

Neko-no-hige (Cat’s Whiskers) 10b    Crux was technical, I pulled on a quickdraw.

Route with no name 10b    I could not take off the ground!

NORYO-IWA

Toraband 5.9   This route was easy.

 

We wrapped up close to 6:00PM after everybody else was gone.

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Neko-no-hige 10b
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Total Recall 10b
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No name 10b

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